János Hegy

János Hegy [map]
Buda, XII, János Hegy (Childrens' Railway), 15 min

One of the great advantages of Budapest is that it’s really easy to get out of. I love the city, don’t get me wrong, but every couple of weeks, I like to breathe unpolluted air; I like to see green things; I like to listen and hear nothing.

Thankfully, Budapest has its very own built-in countryside. Buda’s hills are the nearest faraway place. From the centre of town, you can be at Moszkva tér in ten minutes. After two stops on tram 56, you’re still in the city. But as soon as the cogwheel railway starts juddering and jolting, you know that you’ve escaped.

After a few minutes, the train pauses at a curious backwater. The houses of the well-to-do hide amongst the trees and the city visibly retreats into the distance. When you first use the cogwheel railway, you’ll realise that it’s less romantic than it sounds. It’s just bog-standard BKV transport, functional at best, but its function is romantic enough to make it a pleasant trip.

At the terminus, a short walk across the park brings you to the Children’s Railway, which is an enjoyable farce. There’s a mosaic in the station building that speaks volumes about the pride that the Soviets took in their scouts movement. Happy but disciplined children blow whistles and wave flags. Today, somehow, this tradition has been preserved. Three children salute us as the train pulls out of the station.

At János-Hegy, crooked steps lead out of the station and along a path which winds up towards the summit. Thankfully, a few stalls sell drinks and snacks before the steep climb to the lookout tower. The tower itself, looking fresh from its renovation in 2005, is more than a little reminiscent of the Fisherman’s bastion. It marks the highest point in Budapest and the views, naturally, are outstanding: in one direction, the city’s miniature landmarks; in the other, rolling hills coated in a deep green fleece.

For the descent, forget about the railways and head for the chairlift. Gliding down the hill, with the city opening out ahead of you is simply serene, or, if you’re a little wary of heights, exhilarating. Take a deep breath as you reach the bottom and ponder how to get off the damn thing, and with any luck, you might still have some oxygen left in your lungs by the time you get back to the city.

To follow the route above, take the 56 tram from Moszkva tér two stops to the Cogwheel railway terminus at Városmajor. Travel the entire length of the cogwheel railway, which should take about 25 minutes and costs just a single BKV ticket. At the Széchenyi-hegy terminus, bear left past a small cafe and continue on foot to the Children's Railway station at the end of the road. János Hegy is the fourth stop. After decending by chairlift, take a 158 bus back to Moszkva tér. You can take the chairlift both ways, if you prefer.
Janos Hegy, Hedge, Hill
Andy Sz.

The Parliament Building - Az Országház

Kossuth tér [map]
Pest Centre, V,
Kossuth tér (M2, T2/2a), 0 min

Budapest doesn’t have the highest international profile, which affords me a great satisfaction in showing people where I live. At Batthyány tér metro we head for the far escalator in a well-rehearsed act. My unsuspecting guest rambles on about something which will be abruptly forgotten as soon as we emerge by the side of the Danube. The Parliament’s score of spires reach into the sky, as the river winds under a trio of bridges before disappearing somewhere at the foot of Gellért Hill.

This is undoubtedly among the finest cityscapes in Europe, and the Parliament building is its crowning glory. But don’t satisfy yourself with having glanced over the river at it.

Getting into the Parliament is no mean feat, so a little guile might avert serious queues and mild sunstroke. English tours are by far the most popular so if you’re not too worried about catching all the facts and stats, it might be worth taking a chance on your foreign language skills. Visits are by guided tour only but they are free for EU citizens, provided you remember your passport. For information on tours and tickets, click here.

Any misgivings about the toil required to get inside are quickly dispelled. The route through the building is an acclimatisation to grandeur. I’ve wandered around a few cathedrals in my time but never have I seen such a concentration of grandiosity (bear in mind that I haven't been to Rome.) And yet, the fact that a lobby can be so sumptuous, and a staircase so magnificent, is mere preparation for what lies beneath the dome.

The ceiling of the cupola is a spider’s web of gold and green; a sixteen pointed star; the light of Hungarian democracy. It fuses effortlessly with the stained glass windows and is quite dizzyingly awe-inspiring. The centrepiece is the Holy Crown, the symbol of Hungary’s 1000 year history, first worn by the nation’s founding father, St. Istvan.

Meanwhile, a visit to one of two near-identical chambers, depending on whether the national assembly is in session, reminds us that this is a functioning parliament, which proves to be surprisingly modern. Each seat in a horseshoe of antique-looking pews is activated by a personal swipe-card, allowing MPs to submit their “yays” and “nays” electronically.

The success with which the Parliament depicts a glorious tradition of democracy is truly impressive, and shows no sign of the century of political instability that has accompanied its existence. For the other half of the story, turn to Kossuth tér itself, which bears one or two scars.

The Parliament lies on Kossuth tér and as the largest building in the country, you can't miss it as you emerge from the metro or tram stop.
parlement, parlament, congress, hub choice
Andy Sz.

hub choice

No matter how long you're in Budapest for, there are a few places we think you should really check out. So we've created:

Click on the logo above, or in the right-hand menu in any of the sections: bars & cafes; eating out; or sightseeing, to find our list of unmissables. Or just keep your eyes peeled for the tag.

If there's anywhere you think we've overlooked, please let us know.

Andy T.









...............................

Sightseeing in Budapest

Is there anything in Budapest you think we should have reviewed by now?

Mail us and we might just do it!

Andy.














................................................